Domaine Paul Autard Châteauneuf du Pape La Côte Ronde 2017

The saturated purple-colored 2017 Châteauneuf Du Pape La Côte Ronde is, as always, 50% each of Grenache and Syrah, yet in this vintage, it was brought up all in older barrels. Blackcurrants, toasted spice, graphite, licorice, and peppery meat notes all emerge from this wonderfully textured, full-bodied, opulent effort. With a rich, layered mid-palate, no hard edges, and terrific purity, it still seems to have a modern edge yet is just brilliantly done. Count me in as a fan.

This blend of equal parts Grenache and Syrah offers luminous cassis and raspberry flavors shaded by smoky, spicy undertones of cracked pepper and licorice. Sourced from ancient vines ranging from 70 to 90 years old and matured in old, neutral barriques, it's an intensely penetrating, fruit-focused wine that settles on fine, integrated tannins. Thrilling young but should drink beautifully through 2030 and hold longer still.

Dark and winey, featuring lots of currant, fig and blackberry compote notes stuffed together, with hints of ganache, tobacco and roasted alder filling in around them. A warm earth accent runs through the finish, which exhibits grip and drive. Rock-solid. Best from 2022 through 2037.

Deep, bright-rimmed ruby. Expansive, mineral-accented red and dark berry preserve, licorice and potpourri aromas are complemented by allspice and smoky mineral flourishes. Sweet and seamless in texture, showing impressive depth to the vivid black raspberry, cherry cola and spicecake flavors, which are supported by an undercurrent of juicy acidity. Finishes very long and broad, with building tannins lending shape to lingering licorice and candied lavender notes.