The 2017 Brunello Di Montalcino is surprising in its freshness, considering the warmth of the vintage, and speaks to the cooler, northern-facing exposition of the estate. It is refined with ripe red cherry, raspberry, anise, and incense and is fresh with cherry fruit, warming spices, macchia, and herbes de Provence. It is ripe though it maintains a medium frame, with well-managed tannins and balanced acidity. It is a lovely and charming wine and is rather approachable now. Drink 2024-2040.

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is a model of grace and refinement, with exotic spice nuances that blow off to reveal wild strawberries, rosemary, dried flowers and worn leather. It's unbelievably lifted and refined for the vintage, with a wave of saline-tinged red fruits that cascade across a core of zesty acidity. There's an edginess to the tannins that shows a bit of the warm and dry conditions of the year, yet balance is expertly maintained as the 2017 leaves licorice and bitter cherry notes to fade slowly. I'm impressed, especially considering the extended barrel aging practiced at Biondi Santi. I don't expect the 2017 to be one of the greatest renditions of the Annata from the estate over the years, but it is a highly successful wine for the vintage.