Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken 2017
It’s richer and less minty than usual but I like the richness in this vintage, which can use a little gras; so anticipate a wine with more apple and less spearmint; crunchy stuff. The parcel is called Heel and it’s to the right of Anrecht, from which one of the great trio of en-bloc wines comes.
Pungent, with aromas of slate and ripe orchard fruit, this sleek white displays complex flavors of flowers, peach, quince and slate. A hint of chive works into the mix as this remains persistent on the finish. Drink now through 2024.
Cassis and ripe apple pour from the glass, but it’s still delicate and very refreshing. A great, light Mosel wine that has enormous vivacity at the long finish..
This year’s version of what has become a reliable Selbach classic could easily have joined the newly expanded ranks of wines from this estate labeled feinherb, inasmuch as it displays a bit more sweetness than usual or than I expect under the rubric halbtrocken - especially in a high-acid vintage. Be that as it may, the wine has found its own delectable balance. Vanilla- and mint-tinged fresh apple as well as a lovely combination of creaminess with juicy refreshment could easily have come from a Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. Stony and nutty accents serve for counterpoint on a lusciously lingering finish of admirable clarity.
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